Recipes

Discussion in 'Soap Making' started by 2Sticks, Feb 25, 2013.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. 2Sticks

    2Sticks New Member

    810
    0
    0
    This is going to be our section for soap/ bath & body recipes.
    I'm getting ready to post recipe. I have used it before and it makes a very nice bar of soap. Recipes will be added as we go along, I'll try to find some everyone will really like and that will be helpful to all of us.
    Tamera


    ETA: so that people aren't asking questions in this sticky, it has been locked. If you have a recipe to share, post it in the main soap section and one of the moderators can move it to this thread.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 23, 2013
  2. 2Sticks

    2Sticks New Member

    810
    0
    0
    "Moisture Rich" Soap
    Compliments of Cherie Norquay

    This is one of my most requested and best moisturizing hand soap recipes. I not only like to use this hand soap at my sink, I also like to use this soap in the shower because it is so moisturizing. What's the secret ingredient? Shea butter. Shea butter has special moisturizing qualities and I strive to preserve these qualities in my hand made soap. I like to think this soap is unique because the of the steps I take to create it.

    Best Moisturizing Hand Soap Recipe
    :

    Ingredients:

    25 oz. olive oil

    10 oz. coconut oil

    10 oz. palm oil

    5 oz. shea butter

    16 oz. water

    7 oz. lye

    Instructions:

    I make this soap a little differently than my other soaps. I melt the coconut oil and palm oils together. Then I add the olive oil. When the oils and the lye/water (or lye/milk) slurry are both at about 110 degrees, I incorporate the slurry into the oils. When the soap is at very light trace, I then incorporate the melted shea butter. I like to incorporate the shea butter at this point, hoping that most of the shea butter will not react with the lye and retain it's moisturizing properties. (we know saponification happens to all the oils, or it wouldn't be a bar of soap, so you can go ahead add your shea butter to the other base oils in the beginning) I know there are still lots of free lye radicals in the soap, but hopefully most of them mixed with the other base oils.

    I like to use LIGHT olive oil so I get a very light (almost white) color bar of soap. If you use extra virgin olive oil, the bar will not look so white. If you use pomace oil, the soap will have a greenish look -- you will also need to consult a lye calculator because you may need to adjust the amount of olive oil if you are substituting pomace.

    This recipe will produce 16 - 4 oz. bars of soap. If you reduce or increase the recipe size, be sure to double check your oil and lye amounts with a lye calculator. It always pays to be on the safe side. I usually make this soap in a large loaf mold that makes 64 bars of soap at a time.

    Any soap maker would benefit from adding this best moisturizing hand soap recipe to their soap making repertoire.
     

  3. 2Sticks

    2Sticks New Member

    810
    0
    0
    Anise Soap

    Anise Soap:
    2 oz Apricot Kernel Oil
    9 oz Coconut Oil
    6 oz Olive Oil
    5 oz Palm Kernel Oil
    10 oz Palm Oi
    10 oz water
    4.7oz lye
    16g anise EO

    Thank you to Paula Thomas of Sultan Scents for this recipe
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2013
  4. Walmart Recipe



    Vicki's Walmart recipe
    64 ounce bucket of lard (Wal Mart)
    31.5 container of LouAnn coconut Oil (WalMart)
    16.5 ounces of Sunflower or Safflower Oil or Olive Oil (WalMart)
    28 to 34 ounces of liquid
    16 ounces of lye
    .........................

    *Always put any recipe you get from any source through the lye calculator at thesage.com (you can also resize the recipe to make it smaller)
    *You can change up the oil in this if your store does not carry Sunflower, just put in 16.5 ounces of olive, safflower or even soybean, peanut or corn oil, just put it into the lye calculator so you will see if you need to change the amount of lye you put into this recipe.
    *Until you have made several batches of soap use the higher end up to 34 ounces of liquid, as you get more experienced you can go lower, and even much lower than 28 ounces, but it is not for the faint of heart!
    *This 7 pound batch of butters and oils fills a Martha Stewart Utility tray all the way up, and it's what I use.
    I use between 3 and 7 ounces of fragrance oils or essential oils for this whole batch, depending upon the quality of the scent.
    *When you print out your recipe on thesage.com always read and comply with the dangers of lye and making soap on the site. Always wear goggles or a face shield, always wear long sleeves, do not breath in the fumes when combining lye and liquid. Soap in a well ventilated area.
    *Liquid is liquid, be it all milk, all water, a combination of both, or fruit or veggy purees or juices. The more liquid in your recipe the longer it takes for your soap to harden (cure).
    *Always add your lye slowly to your liquid, adding liquid to your lye can blow it up into your face.
    *Using recipes that involve measurements and not weights is fine for soap for your family, do not even think about letting someone else use or buy this soap.

    This is the recipe I teach and the instructions that I teach.....

    Get your soaping equipment together. I soap in buckets, so get a 2 gallon bucket from Walmart in the paint section. You will also need a scale, a cheap postal scale that will weigh your 3 to 8 ounces of scent, your 16.5 ounces of oils, your lye and your water and up to your 7 pounds of soap in a bucket.... is all that you need. A big stainless spoon, I like the professional ones with the long handles so I can stand back when I mix my lye into my liquid. Assorted glass measuring cups and stainless spoons. A small stainless bucket (mine is actually a ice bucket from Walmart). Goggles, and apron to protect your clothes or a long sleeved big shirt and gloves (the Playtex yellow ones for washing dishes are perfect).

    Your first batch will be water, no GM.

    Weigh out your liquid into your stainless steel lye pot, put it into one side of your cleaned out sink with the stopper in the bottom. Weigh out your 16 ounces of lye in a clean dry container (a disposable drink cup works great for this, or even a Rubbermaid bowl). Put your stainless steel spoon into the water, and slowly start pouring in your lye, stir well to dissolve, hold your breath or look away, do not breath in the fumes. Once stirred in and you can't feel any lye crunching on the bottom of the container, start running cold water into the sink to cover about 1/2 of the lye container, to cool it, not so much water that the container starts to float and tip over. Leave this to cool.

    Open your lard bucket, peel off the top and place in the microwave until it is almost melted. 4 minutes or so. Overheated lard smells like bacon, and nobody wants bacon soap, so take it slowly, you are wanting it all soft an gushy, not cooked. Pour and scrape the lard into your soaping bucket that is in the bottom of your sink. Now nuke your coconut oil, it only takes about 1 minute during the warm summer, and about 3 minutes during the cold winter. Pour this into your soap bucket on top of the lard. Now use the coconut oil container to weigh out your sunflower oil on your scale, you need 16.5 ounces. Pour this into your soap bucket.

    Weigh out your scent. I set in a row the things I am going to add to this batch of soap, in order of usage so I don't forget anything.

    Now prepare your mold. If you are using wood, line it with freezer paper, if you are using plastic or Martha molds, spray them with PAM or Walmart's fake spray. Using plastic bags over your molds works also, the soap simply settles the plastic bag into the mold, it does leave wrinkles in your soap though, but the ease of this is perfect for folks making home soap.

    You have everything ready and your lye/liquid is cool. You are now ready to soap:

    Using your lye stirring spoon, slowly pour your now cool lye water into your butters and oils. You can stir this soap together for the whole time or you can use a stick (immersion blender) blender also. Start with stirring, then move to your stick blender. The first thing you will notice when stirring the soap is that it turns from white to more opaque looking, this is emulsion (this is when you would add oatmeal, or goat milk or clays or colorings or whatever you want, this means the lye is completely coated with butters and oils and can't burn anything you add to the soap. After a few more minutes, you will notice the soap thickening up, like gravy does. And if you turn off your stick blender and lift it up, you can make little trails of soap over the top of the soap in the bucket that take a few seconds to settle into the rest of the soap. This is trace, and what you are looking for. When it's cold out trace comes quickly, when hot out it takes a little longer to get to trace...too much liquid and you never hit really good trace. Now it's time to turn your stick blender off and stir in your fragrance oil, I use a rubber spatula, because I also use this to help me scrape all my soap into the molds (I pour 14 and 21 pound batches so it's more dumping than pouring). Get the soap in the mold after putting in your fragrance oils. Do not play with it, just get it in...fragrance oils and essential oils can cause all sorts of problems when adding it to the soap. It can accelerate trace so fast that you have oatmeal, or worse, cement in your bucket! It can cause lumps or little pieces of rice...so move fast, safely but don't daudle!

    I start cleaning up immediately so I don't have soap to soak or scrape out of my buckets and off my stick blender and spoons. Let the soap sit out on the counter for 24 to 48 hours then unmold and cut, it is ready to use after you cut it, but most of us let our soap cure. We set it out on racks for 3 to 6 weeks, where liquid is evaporated out of the soap. It makes the soap harder, and last longer. I use a dehumidifier to hasten this process.

    Congrats, you have made soap!

    Now comes swirling, water discounts, all goatmilk soaps, using water to melt your lye and then adding GM at emulsion, coloring, all the different scents and molds. Welcome!

    *Start with the basic first. Most of us just barely go by the rules of soaping once we do it awhile: Adding our scents and everything but our swirl colors to our butters and oils before we even add our lye liquid. I put my molds into the oven to speed cure and gel so I can sell my soap faster. Adding everything but the kitchen sink to our soaps for benefits or just pure label appeal. But do start slowly. Read up on saponification. Know the chemical process of what you are doing as you aim for outside sales. Get a reliable source for your scents, your lye, and other products. Learn, learn, learn and be careful. Vicki
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2013
  5. Lynn_Theesfeld

    Lynn_Theesfeld New Member

    884
    0
    0
    Rose Clay Shea Butter Scrub

    Recipe:
    10 oz Shea Butter (I whip mine)

    1 oz Sweet Almond Oil

    0.4 oz Fragrance Oil

    3 teaspoons Rose Clay

    12 oz Sugar

    Jar or other container (for packaging/storage)

    Using a mixer, start whipping your shea butter.Add your rose clay to your sweet almond oil, mix it well and be sure to get all the clumps out. Add mixture to shea butter as well as your fragrance and get it back to a whipped consistency.
    Once all of the other ingredients are well mixed, add the sugar a little bit at a time, mixing fully each time before adding more sugar. Continue until all of the sugar is incorporated.

    After everything is mixed well, put into jars and Enjoy!

    Lynn
     
  6. Lynn_Theesfeld

    Lynn_Theesfeld New Member

    884
    0
    0
    Beginner Bath Bombs!!!


    Dry ingredients: (By Weight, as measured on a scale.)

    Baking Soda – 8 ounces
    Citric Acid – 4 ounces
    Corn Starch – 4 ounces
    Salts – 4 ounces (I used Dead Sea Salts, but mineral salts work too, and are easier to find and significantly less expensive.)

    Wet Ingredients:

    Water – .75 tbsp
    Essential or Fragrance Oil – 2 tsp (for these I used a Ginger Peach.)
    Oil – 2.5 tbsp (I used cherry kernel, but any light vegetable oil will work.)
    Food coloring – 1 or 2 drops.

    NOTE: If you live in a humid climate I don't recommend making these on a nasty humid day......Unless you are set up right in front of your dehumidifier, You need to let these set up a little and dry. If it's humid they will swell into huge globs of ick- which after it dries makes one heck of a bath bomb (even if it is a little icky looking)

    (I store mine in a huge glass container I bought from walmart unwrapped and so far they have survived nicely!)

    Experiment, Create, & Enjoy!!!!!

    Lynn
     
  7. Lynn_Theesfeld

    Lynn_Theesfeld New Member

    884
    0
    0
    Basic Veggie Bar

    12 oz Coconut Oil
    12oz Olive oil
    20 oz Vegetable Shortening
    16oz Goats Milk (Because I personally refuse to use anything else)
    6 oz Lye

    Make sure that you put the recipe through a lye cal. I use https://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php
    Anyway this was the recipe I used when I first started making soap. I think it's a lovely bar and use a variation in some of my soaps I sell on the website.

    Experiment, Create, & Enjoy!!!!!

    Lynn
     
  8. Joan

    Joan New Member

    18
    0
    0
    Thanks for sharing your recipes with us here...I did find the recipe Vicki thanks again joan
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.