Does Bleach kill coccidia?

Discussion in 'Dairy Goat Info' started by Faithful Crown Nubians, Sep 25, 2008.

  1. If the barn walls and fence are washed down with bleach, and the ground soaked with bleach will it kill coccida?

    They tend to keep to the barn when they are sick. I have to do something because this is getting ridiculous. (sp?) the goats keep getting coccidia even though they get the treatments like they are suppose to. The only reason I can find as to why they keep getting it is because of the stall.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. trnubian

    trnubian New Member

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    I don't know the exact answer to that one but I would say it sure wouldn't hurt to give it a try. Also liming the bejeebers out of their stall (and outside where they are if possible) would also help.

    What coccidiostat are you using? I have found sulmet to be the best for me at the present time. Sometimes some kinds work better than others. Di-Methox didn't seem to work for us. Are you using the correct dose or the dose the vet gave you?

    How about probiotics? Those are essential in keeping their gut working and their immune systems functioning properly. A shot of Vit. B wouldn't hurt anything either. If they are still having a lot of problems with coccidia I would change your coccidiostat and use the correct dosage on this forum, and proably go ahead and put some vitamin electrolyte pack in their water (if they will drink it.)

    I hope it works for you. I know how frustrating getting rid of that nasty stuff can be. (I would honestly treat your whole heard if this seems to be such a problem where you are.)

    Good luck!
     

  3. Thanks. I am using the dosage found on here for dimethox. The dimethox worked with Hannah, she hadn't been sick with it for over a week, same with Delilah. Georgia never got it until recently, once she got it the other two are following right behind her, which is why I am just going to go ahead and retreat her just so they all get treated for it at the same time. I should have done that at the beginning. So I have been watching all 3 of them VERY closely. Delilah looked off today which is why I went ahead and treated her before she showed signs of the runs.

    The dimethox clears it up fairly quickly, with in a day or two depending on how sick they are with hannah that one time it took her a few days before she was back to normal, it'll take a bit for Delilah I am sure because she's sick like Hannah was but when the other times they were sick they bounced back with in a couple days of starting the treatment. I think its just the fact that they have had it in their stall so bad. They don't go outside when they are sick. They stay inside (Which is good b/c if bleach will kill it it'll be much easier to do that then try to get rid of it in the pasture.) And I always complete the treatment even when they get completely back to normal.

    They get probiotics to.

    I have NEVER had any problems with coccida until 2007. And that was with two goats I bought. (Tucker & Teeka)

    I think after these girls get this round of dimethox (They are already started on it) I will go ahead and bleach the stall...it can't hurt. And the girls can go in the other pen until its ok for them to go back in there. If they get it again, I'll switch to a different coccidia treatment.
     
  4. whimmididdle

    whimmididdle Guest

    We used to use clorox on those messed up pens when I worked at the Vet office. The amount of contact time that chlorine takes to kill a "bug" can vary a bit.....and strength can matter too. I think that we used about 4 ounces of clorox to a gallon of water back then.
    I'm not sure that this is gonna solve your problem though. It seems unlikely to me that those goats would be re-infecting themselves again that quick unless things are just horrible there...and I doubt that they are.
    I'm almost lead to believe that the cocci treatment is not working properly, or those goats have some immunity issues going on.
    I hope you get the problem solved though, as cocci can ruin things pretty quick.

    Whim
     
  5. Sondra

    Sondra New Member

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    Don't think Clorox will do it believe you have to use something that Vicki gets and maybe ammonia I 'll see what I can find.
    Are you using demethox 40% or 12.5%
     
  6. NubianSoaps.com

    NubianSoaps.com New Member

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    Look in the dog sections of jefferspet.com or get their pet catalog and read the disenfectants. Also look in the chicken and hog sections of QC supply.com I wouldn't use clorox because it forms an amonia that can kill you when in contact with manure. And since clorox will only disenfect after you have cleaned everything with soap and water and won't work on porus sufaces you can see what a poor job it would do on the soil in the barn or even the wood on the walls.

    Kids get cocci from stepping on occysts and then with their feet stepping on their hay and feed and ingesting it. You have to think over how you fed. Kids have to put their heads through something...cattle panel, boards, something and then into a feeder. If there is a board or something under the feeder that they can step on so thy have to reach up to eat this keep them from stepping in the feeder. Same with their hay and their water.

    Kids can be in pens riddled with cocci, like here, and have low levels on the right drugs and with clean hay and grain feeders.

    Pasture....if the puddles with the rain are as high a the grass the kids eat than they will get cocci eggs from every leave and every piece of grass they eat at pasture.

    You have to have goats a few years to find out just how important cleanliness in your kid pens is. You simply can't keep early born kids in a pen and then add late born kids or purchased kids to that same pen without problems.

    Late born kids and purchased kids should be raised completely seperate until 6 or 7 months old and weaned and on their last time of cocci prevention. Then watch their fecal like a hawk. Part of the whole, I don't breed for summer kids, and when I buy a late spring kid if I don't have an extra pen for her for that long I can't afford to buy her because I am ruining her anyway. I purchased a late kid from Tim this year, I not only had to pay for her and her testing, the drive there and back (which a lucky 30 minutes of my first slot machines pretty much paid for :) but I also purchased a doeling from Sondra, picked her up from Lynn and now have paid and furnished milk and feed and hay for a friend of mine who has a clean new place for her and the kids to raise her out. That is the true cost of this late born kid. Obviously I really really wanted her.

    Your kids should have really good immunity to all this by 6 and 7 months old. Next year try another drug, also think about using it with a feed through meat goat pellet with deccox in it. Breed for as early of kids as you can do saftely and don't have straglers every few months. Because what you will see is healthy fast grown older kids, and sickly, puny late born kids, over and over. Also think about a late born kid pen...I am going to put in a kid pen next year that is moveable, so yearly it can be moved to a new area of the backyard. Vicki
     
  7. nitrors4

    nitrors4 Guest

    That is great information Vicki. I know I will have two pens this year for my babies, but next year is another story. I like the movable pen idea. I have lots of property I could shift it around on. Not having the pen in the same spot every year would also help with parasites. :biggrin

    You are one smart cookie.
     
  8. stoneyheightsfarm

    stoneyheightsfarm New Member

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    If you want a year-round milk supply, can you stagger births? Would it be better to stagger for maybe Feb. or Mar. kiddings and then use artificial light or something to get maybe November kids rather than some Feb, some Apr, some June?
     
  9. NubianSoaps.com

    NubianSoaps.com New Member

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    We easily got our Nubians to kid in December without lights or drugs, then the Lamancha's in March and the crossbred does whose kids were not kept as replacements and sold the day they were born with the bucks killed at birth, in June. (Now the option would be to breed them boer, it wasn't back then). This way we had year round milk with the largest group...the does who just kidded in December and the cross bred does milking through winter which gave us premium prices...and plus once folks came up here to purchase and saw how nice and clean the place was we took alot of other folks business away from them even if it was more local for the rest of the year.

    As the does who freshened in March were in full swing of milking it was time to dry up the does due to kid in June, but I also had the does who kidded in December in mid lactation also.

    I simply would not breed does in the south in the vein of keeping replacements out of them for myself for June...shoot not even May. Vicki